Paxos Sailing Guide: Anchorages, Harbours and Tips

Overview

Paxos (Παξός), also commonly referred to as Paxi or Paxoi (from the Greek Παξοί – where “οι” is pronounced as “i” in Greek) is a small island that amazes with its lacy coastline, deep-blue coves, sea caves, and landscapes of wild beauty. It is an essential destination for any sailor exploring the Ionian Sea. However, this appeal comes with a price. The island now hosts countless boats during the high season, more than its anchorages and harbours can comfortably support. Be prepared for intense competition for a proper spot, whether for a berth in a harbour or for anchoring in a roadstead.

Legend holds that Paxos was born from a fit of passion. Seeking a private sanctuary for his beloved Amphitrite, the sea god Poseidon struck Corfu with his powerful trident, cleaving off the southern piece to form the new island. He lost his mythical weapon in the process, and the resourceful locals eventually found the trident, embracing it as their defining emblem.

Entering the harbour

You can enter from the north (39⁰12.244′ N, 20⁰11.499′ E ) or the southeast (39⁰11.795′ N, 20⁰11.311′ E ).

• Southeast Entrance: This entrance is shallow. You must stay exactly in the middle of the channel to find a depth of ~2m. It is essential for most monohulls to avoid this entrance, as it becomes shallower every year.
• North Entrance: When proceeding to the main quay from the north, the channel narrows. Maneuver carefully to stay in the centre while navigating around other boats.

North Channel

Approximate pos.: 39⁰12.118′ N, 20⁰11.188′ E

This area is more peaceful, but the village is a 10-minute walk or a short dinghy ride away. You can reserve a berth here via the SaMMY app or website. Moor stern-to the new pontoons on the northwestern side. Lazy lines are provided but are often too short for a 12m sailboat, making them unsafe. Therefore, most sailboats must drop their own anchor and can then pass the lazy line to a midship cleat for better holding.

A large chain runs along the channel floor to secure the pontoons. It is very likely you will foul your anchor on this chain. To avoid this, drop your anchor on the opposite side of the channel and ensure it hits the bottom before reversing. A diver charges €200 for retrieval – a common expense here.

Main Quay

Approx. pos.: 39⁰11.893′ N, 20⁰11.153′ E

This location places you at the centre of the town’s social life, with minimal noise disturbance. During high season, finding a spot requires arriving between 12:00 – 13:00, and even then, it is not guaranteed.

Moor stern- to the dock. Drop as much chain as possible because the bottom has stone plates and the anchor may not hold without the help from the chain’s weight. Practically, you should drop the anchor near the opposite rocks of Agios Nikolaos islet.

Berths to the southeast part of the quay (closer to the southeast entrance) are marked with a yellow line. In these you can stay between 5 p.m. – 10 a.m.

Anchoring

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰10.928′ N, 20⁰12.247′ E

You can anchor freely in the cove between Paxos and Mongonissi, in front of the beach. This cove is protected from all wind directions, making it an ideal overnight stop. Depth is around 8m with a muddy bottom, offering excellent holding. For the most secure setup, take stern lines to the southwestern rocks (approx. 39⁰10.895′ N, 20⁰12.219′ E ). Note: The anchorage gets busy; arriving late makes finding a good spot uncertain.

Docking

Approx. pos.: 39⁰10.954′ N, 20⁰12.305′ E

A pier is located just north of the beach. Use caution as the water is shallow near the pier. If mooring stern-to, keep your stern about 3 metres off the pier to protect your rudder. There are reports that there are rats by the dock, so using rat guards on mooring lines is essential.

Secondary anchorage – Between Mongonisi and Kaltsonisi

Type: Channel anchorage
Best for: Scenic anchorage with clear water
Protection: Limited space; affected by traffic
Holding: Good in sand

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰10.802′ N, 20⁰12.650′ E

This alternative anchorage in the channel between Mongonissi and Kaltsonisi (Kaltsonísi, Καλτσονήσι) offers wonderfully coloured water and a picturesque chapel on Kaltsonisi. Drop your anchor near the rocks of Kaltsonisi and take stern lines to the rocks of Mongonissi.The channel is narrow, limiting the amount of chain you can deploy. The area is busy with motorboats during the day but becomes much quieter after 6 p.m.

These 2 areas offer an amazing experience with numerous caves and crystal-clear water around them. Between 10:00 – 17:00 the areas are packed with dozens of boats, some of which transfer more than 100 people. Also, lots of boats are entering the caves, rendering swimming in them dangerous. If you want to trully enjoy it, avoid this time. The anchorages offer little to no protection from the prevailing NW wind and therefore the best time to visit them is early in the morning.

You will need to anchor in approximately 20 metres of depth. The bottom is sand with rocky patches. Using a trip line is advised to facilitate retrieval if the anchor becomes fouled.

Lakka (Λάκκα) is a wonderful natural harbour on the north side of Paxos. The turquoise colour of the water throughout the bay makes anchoring here an amazing experience. The bay is popular and easily becomes overcrowded. Docking is also an option, but berths are limited and demand is high. The village of Lakka is picturesque and worth exploring. Its small alleys make driving practically impossible, making for a pleasant walk. It also offers several excellent tavernas; my personal recommendations are “Stasinos” and “Nionios,” though there are others equally good.

Watch an informative video about the area on YouTube.

Docking

Pos.: 39⁰14.123′ N, 20⁰8.108′ E

Moor stern-to the NE part of the quay, as the rest is shallow. The far NE corner is reserved for the ferry. Your anchor will set in 4-5 metres on a bottom of sand and seaweed, which provides good holding. Do not be overconfident due to the shallow depth; drop a sufficient scope—30 metres or more is advised. There is room for approximately five sailboats. Water and electricity are available with a card (€12) from the nearby minimarket. Fuel can be delivered by a tanker truck on the quay. Docking is free.

Anchoring

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰14.256′ N, 20⁰7.891′ E

Anchoring in the bay is the best way to enjoy the Caribbean-like water. The bottom is sand with 3-5m depth and excellent holding. The safest option is to anchor with stern lines to the rocks on the west-northwest side of the bay. There is a gap on the western hills at approximately 39⁰14.336′ N, 20⁰7.928′ E; it is best to avoid this area as is exposed on funnel wind. Swinging freely with the anchor is a fine option as well. Most of the bay is open to NE winds. In this case, head to the SE part of the bay, approximately at 39⁰14.166′ N, 20⁰8.095′ E /

Docking

Pos.: 39⁰13.579′ N, 20⁰9.728′ E

Only a couple of berths at the edge of the old pier are available for sailboats. In calm conditions, you can also use the outer (east) side. The pier is severely damaged and partially submerged. Moor stern-to, dropping your anchor in 3-4 metres depth from the west side or 5-6 metres from the east. Holding is average. Water and electricity are available. Be aware that numerous small rental motorboats in the harbour can create significant wash.

Anchoring

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰13.630′ N, 20⁰9.749′ E

The bay offers protection from the prevailing NW afternoon wind. You can anchor freely or take stern lines to the shore in the northern part of the bay (approx. 39⁰13.661′ N, 20⁰9.774′ E and 39⁰13.711′ N, 20⁰9.794′ E). The bay is completely exposed to NE, E, and SE winds, which can bring swell and make anchoring uncomfortable and potentially unsafe. Look for the large, visible sand patches to ensure the best holding for your anchor.

Type: Beach anchorage
Best for: Scenic stop with clear water
Protection: Exposed to NW
Holding: Excellent in sand (avoid weed)

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰13.459′ N, 20⁰10.030′ E

Marmari (Μαρμάρι) is a beautiful, secluded beach with pristine waters. Anchor on a sandy bottom in approximately 5 metres of depth; the holding is excellent if you avoid the seaweed patches. The anchorage is not protected from the strong NW afternoon wind. For a more secure and comfortable stay, you can take stern lines to the western rocks.

Type: Beach anchorage
Best for: Spacious anchorage
Protection: Good from NW
Holding: Average – Mixed bottom (sand, weed, rocks)

Approx. anchorage pos.: 39⁰13.058′ N, 20⁰10.208′ E

Kipiadi (Κηπιάδι) is a large, peaceful cove with beautiful waters. There is ample space for many boats, though it can become overcrowded during the high season. The cove is well-sheltered from the prevailing NW afternoon wind. You can take stern lines to the northwestern rocks for a more secure anchorage – if megayachts haven’t occupied them first. The bottom is a mix of sand, seaweed, and rocks. Several attempts may be required to set your anchor properly.